Whether you are a skincare aficionado or a newbie, you must have heard about the star ingredient for your skin, retinol. Retinol is considered the holy grail ingredient in the skincare community for its transforming effects on the skin. But what exactly is retinol? What are the benefits of retinol? And how does it work its magic?
Rest easy. In this article, we’ll go right back to the basics and talk about the really essential things you need to know if you are starting out on your retinol journey. Ok, let’s delve into the myriad benefits of retinol for the skin and the science behind this transformative compound.
What is retinol?
It is well known to all that vitamin A is a crucial nutrient that plays a role in maintaining healthy skin, vision, and immune function. And then here comes the star ingredient, retinol, revered by dermatologists and skincare enthusiasts alike.
Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A and has been incorporated in skincare products since a long ago for its magical impact. It belongs to a class of compounds called retinoids, which encompass various forms of vitamin A each with distinct properties and benefits. Tretinoin is the cousin of retinol, a more potent form that we use on prescription and is considered the gold standard of acne treatment, also tackles the signs of premature ageing.
How does retinol work?
When applied topically, retinol penetrates the outer layer of the skin, known as the epidermis and makes its way to the deeper layers, including the dermis. Within the skin, retinol converts into an active molecule all-trans-retinoic acid or tretinoin via two enzyme steps of oxidation. Retinoic acid then interacts with specific receptors to neutralize free radicles and stimulate cell turnover, and collagen synthesis.
Promoting cell turnover, retinol helps to shed dead skin cells and stimulate the production of new ones, revealing fresh and smoother skin. And on the other hand, as we know collagen helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce the signs of ageing, sagging and wrinkles, improve uneven texture and whatnot!
Benefits of retinol
From diminishing fine lines and wrinkles to banishing acne and hyperpigmentation, retinol benefits are nothing short of miraculous. Let’s explore the numerous benefits of this Holi Grail ingredient.
Anti-ageing benefits of retinol
Retinol’s claim to fame lies in its anti-ageing properties and remarkable ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. But to understand how retinol removes fine lines and wrinkles, you need to know about collagen first.
Collagen is a protein that is responsible for the skin’s structure, firmness and elasticity. It is already in our skin but as we age, the production of collagen slows down and existing collagen fibers become weaker and less organized. This gradual decline of collagen level contributes to various signs of ageing including the breakdown of elastin, slower cell turnover and decreased moisture retention. By promoting collagen production and accelerating cell turnover, retinol helps to plump the skin, smoothing out pesky lines and wrinkles for a more youthful visage.
Retinol for acne
Acne typically arises due to a combination of factors, including excess oil production, clogged pores or inflammation. By promoting exfoliation retinol helps to keep pores clear of dirt and excess oil, prevents breakout and reduces the formation of comedones (whiteheads and blackheads).
Retinol for hyperpigmentation
Hyperpigmentation arises from the overproduction of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color. Various factors such as sun exposure, hormonal changes, and inflammation can trigger melanin production, leading to uneven skin tone and dark spots. Retinol can help fade dark spots and hyperpigmentation by promoting even skin tone and enhancing the cell turnover process.
Retinol for improving skin texture
Whether you are dealing with rough patches, enlarged pores or uneven skin tone, retinol can be your one easy solution to address all texture concerns. With regular use, it can minimize pores, and smooth the skin’s surface, making it softer and more even.
Retinol for reversing sun damage
Sun damage is one of the primary culprits behind premature ageing, but retinol comes to the rescue again. By stimulating cell turnover and collagen production, retinol helps to repair sun-damaged skin, diminishing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines caused by UV exposure.
How to use retinol?
You will find retinol in different formulations over the counter like cream, serum, lotion, gel or ointment. There’s no hard and fast rule for which form is best for you. So It’s best to choose the suitable formulation according to your skin type.
Start with a lower concentration
If you are new to retinol start with a lower concentration (0.25% to .5%) to minimize the risk of irritation and gradually increase the concentration when your skin is well tolerated. If you can’t find a good retinol product within a lower concentration then you can go for a higher concentration but in a gentler form, like encapsulated or granactive retinol.
Right method of retinol application
You can find a number of methods for retinol application. But what we prefer best is the “sandwich method”. First, wash your face with a gentle cleanser. Apply your moisturizer and let it absorb completely. Now take a pea-sized amount of retinol and apply it to your face avoiding sensitive areas like around the eyes, corner of the nose and lips. Once it gets absorbed, apply moisturizer to your face again.
Retinol doesn’t make your skin photo-sensitive but yet it gets deactivated in sun exposure. So it’s suggested to apply retinol at night before bed. Remember never to apply retinol on wet skin.
Related Article: Nighttime Skincare Routine: A Guide to Glowing Smooth Skin
Skincare routine while starting retinol
Keep your skincare routine as simple as you can. Refrain from using any other active ingredients in your skin, at least for the first two weeks. Not even niacinamide, hyaluronic acid or vitamin C. Stop using any exfoliator, acne treatment, laser therapy or waxing during these first two weeks.
After two weeks of starting retinol, you can gradually introduce your other active ingredients like BHA ( Beta Hydroxy Acid), vitamin C, niacinamide etc. in your skincare regime. But be careful about the time of application. Never combined them with retinol. Even should not use other active on the day you are using retinol. Better to apply these other active ingredients and retinol on an alternative day.
Titration method
According to this method, you need to find a concentration which will give the highest benefit with the least side effects. Now if you are thinking about why this method is relevant for retinol, here’s the answer. As you all know after a certain concentration, retinol is considered as medicine.
This method is best for people with sensitive skin. You can do this titration method by rinsing off. That means the first two weeks of starting retinol, instead of keeping retinol overnight on your skin, rinse it off with water only after 10 minutes of applying. Look how your skin is responding. If your skin is too sensitive, you can apply retinol only on your area of concern instead of the whole face.
Amount and frequency of Application
You can start with the titration method, apply only to the concerned areas of the face and then increase the amount gradually. But never apply more than a pea-sized amount.
Now let’s talk about how many times per week. You can apply the 1-2-3 method. That means once a week in the first month, twice a week in the second month and then thrice a week in the third month. And finally, once your skin develops tolerance, you can use it daily if you need to.
Use sunscreen
Protecting your skin from UV- rays is crucial when using retinol. Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher before going on sun exposure.
When should you start using retinol?
Normally it’s alright if you start using retinol from mid-twenty to thirty for anti-ageing concerns. But if you want to use retinol for treating any existing skin concern like acne or breakouts, you can start it at any age.
Who should not use retinol?
High doses of vitamin A, have been associated with an increased risk of birth defects when taken orally. Although topical application of retinol is generally considered safe, it’s better to stay on the side of caution and avoid retinol during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
If you find retinol too irritating even at the lowest concentration or your skin is not getting used to it, then probably you should consider avoiding retinol and go for a gentle retinol alternative like bakuchiol, peptide or snail mucin.
People with certain medical conditions like eczema, rosacea and psoriasis may find retinol exacerbate their symptoms. Retinol may further irritate their skin. So it’s better not to use retinol in these conditions without a dermatologist’s advice.
Final words
Remember that retinol is not a short-term product. Once your skin gets well tolerated, you can use this magical product for the rest of your life.
Our motto here is going slow but not giving up. It may take 8-12 weeks to show effects on your skin or your skin condition may get worse at first, which is called purging or retinization phase. And many of us give up at that point. But we suggest to keep your patience and continue using it. You will see a better version of your skin once it gets tolerated.
